Expanding the SW Spur – A New Direct Start on Jabberwocky Tower

Route Name: SW Spur Direct Start (Jabberwocky Tower)
Location: Jabberwocky Tower (6,840 ft), Chelan County, Washington – West Aspect / Southwest Spur
First Ascent: Erik Koch & David Wood, September 9, 2025
Route Stats: 400 ft (4 pitches), up to 5.8 — Direct Start addition
Total Length: Approximately 1,200 ft (Direct Start + Original SW Spur)

Route Description

On September 9, 2025, Erik Koch and David Wood established a new 400-foot direct start to the Southwest Spur of Jabberwocky Tower in the Enchantments. The addition introduces four new pitches (up to 5.8), extending the route and providing a more direct and aesthetic line from the lowest point on the right side of the west aspect.

The Direct Start begins at the toe of the formation, directly above the low point over Colchuck Lake. The route follows prominent features on the rock above, offering approximately 400 feet of new climbing before joining the original Southwest Spur on the left side of the distinctive “Sandpiper Ledge.” An interesting step-across connects the lower-angled terrain of the first two pitches with the steeper and more engaging third and fourth pitches.

The wide, grass and tree covered Sandpiper Ledge above tends to shed dirt and debris, leaving the lower pitches somewhat loose until further cleaning occurs. Combined with the original Southwest Spur (established the previous year), the route now offers roughly 1,200 feet of varied climbing along a technical ridge. The Direct Start contributes to the growing popularity of Jabberwocky Tower’s west aspect, which continues to see new development and variations.

Location Notes

Approach from the Colchuck Lake side, beginning near the lake’s edge directly below Jabberwocky Tower. Traverse along the shoreline rather than taking the Aasgard Pass Trail—this approach is easiest in the fall when lake levels are lowest. From the shoreline, head uphill directly toward the lowest point of the rock formation, following a natural line of boulders, scree, and large evergreen trees to the base.

7/19/25-Mountian Day

Erik Koch and I climbed a 6-pitch route on the SW side of a small tower called Greater Walkie. The climb ranged from 5.0 to 5.7 difficulty on mostly loose and dirty terrain. Near the top, we encountered some enjoyable exposure on the route. We descended by downclimbing and scrambling about 250 vertical feet toward the NE.

Colchuck Lake WA and its fun scrambles. 2024

7/6. SW Spur of Jabberwocky Tower (6840 ft.). 800 ft. of roped climbing with Erik Koch. Sometimes identified as SW ridge or SW arête. The long climbing feature is visible from the trail leading to Aasgard Pass from Colchuck Lake. Descent: E face.

7/13. E approach, W ascent of the Sandpiper. 20 ft. of roped climbing, hiking, and scrambling.

7/27. N gully of Horn of Plenty. 5.6 for a short section to bypass a large chockstone. NE face has 400′ prominence and lies climber’s left of the gully.

8/25. Sandpiper Start to the SW Spur of Jabberwockey Tower. 270′ 5.7.

8/30. With Erik Koch completed the final two pitches of Taylor Wood, South Face Prusik Peak. 160′ 5.8, finish east summit.

Local Treasures

Fun weekend playing in the North Cascades of Washington. NE Buttress of Mount Goode. 2800ft of great rock climbing.

Erik Koch leading the perfect rock midway through the long ridge route.